The Großglockner (3,798 meters) is Austria’s highest mountain and a sought-after destination among summit collectors. Its good reputation is justified by a racy and varied regular route that leads over relaxed slopes, wide glaciers, steep ice gullies, exposed ridges, and rock climbing sections.
What more could a mountaineer’s heart desire?
Großglockner (3,798 m) is the highest mountain of Austria. In the North East from the peak, Pasterze glacier is the longest glacier in East Alps. The famous mountain road Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse leads to this glacier. On the east side at the shoulder there is a hut “Erzherzog-Johann hut (3454 m)” which is the highest hut of Austria.
The planned route takes the ascent and descent via the normal route. It’s possible to make the tour in 2 days with overnight stays at one of the huts. On the sunny weekends, the normal route is very crowded. Some of them are not experienced which can cause dangerous situations.
Ascent: From the parking lot easy hike (T2) till Stüdlhütte. From the hut follow the marked sign to Großglockner (712, 713). After ~150 elevation gain, you reach the glacier Kodnitzkees which becomes quite steep (35 degrees) before the klettersteig. There are crevasses, you need rope.
The easy (B/C) klettersteig leads to the hut from there follow the glacier Kleinglocknerkees. The last part before the ridge is very steep and icy. The last part is scrambling up to grade II on exposed sections on the ridge. The ridge is usually snow free in summer but there can be some icy parts. There are steel rods for safety.
Descent: Same as ascent.
Address for your sat nav: Kals am Großglockner, 9981, Österreich