A round. One more. And another one. It goes on and on…
I still don’t see it.
It hasn’t come. It’s not here. The breath goes faster, and the monotonous rumble of the black rubber belt predicts something bad.
Not yet.
I look to my left and right, and on the faces of the people around me, I see only smiles, silence, and joy. Everything is as it should be for them: everyone takes their long-awaited luggage and leaves.
Not yet. Or not yet for me.
I sit upright, tense as in a contest, waiting to hear the starting bell. Ten minutes have passed, and not a single movement. After looking at each suitcase, bag, or backpack, the luggage carousel empties. There’s nothing left on it. There’s nobody left here. Everyone’s gone.
What’s happening? Is it real?
The rubber band moves for another minute, and the silence falls over the whole hall, the whole Airport. In a room that a few minutes ago was full of people, now it’s just me. Me with no bag.
Cerro Aconcagua, often called Aconcagua, is the highest mountain in the world outside of Asia. At 6,976 meters high, it is the highest mountain in South America and the entire Western Hemisphere. It is also one of the ‘7 Summits’, a circuit consisting of the highest mountains on each continent.
Part of the Andes mountain range, it is located in Argentina and attracts thousands of climbers from all over the world. As the highest point in the western hemisphere with no peaks of similar height nearby, the view stretches on endlessly, revealing the vast high desert plains and even the Pacific Ocean 130km away.
It lies 112 kilometers northwest of the provincial capital, Mendoza, about five kilometers from the province of San Juan and 15 km from Argentina’s border with Chile. The city has 2 million inhabitants, is situated at an altitude of 760 meters above sea level, and has an average annual temperature of 18 degrees, with 22 degrees in summer and 7 degrees in winter.
Aconcagua and its surroundings are part of the Aconcagua Provincial Park, which was established in 1983 and covers 65,000 hectares. It is bounded by the Valle de las Vacas to the north and east and the Valle de los Horcones Inferior to the west and south.
Hiking Aconcagua is a dream for many hikers – about 5 to 7000 people a year attempt to reach the Summit with a 30-35% success rate. This is quite a low number, considering that Aconcagua is a non-technical climb. What happens is that too many people underestimate the mountain and try to tackle the Summit before they have the experience to do so.
Although the effects of altitude are severe (the atmospheric pressure is 40% of sea level at the Summit), supplemental oxygen is not typically required.
Altitude sickness will affect most climbers to some degree, depending on their degree of acclimatization, but unfortunately, there are still a few casualties every year. This is because many climbers underestimate the objective risks of altitude, wind, and cold, which are the real challenges on this mountain.
The first known attempt to summit the mountain was in 1883, but the attempt failed. In 1897, Swiss mountaineer Matthias Zurbriggen became the first known climber to reach the Summit.
The origin of Aconcagua’s name may derive from the native Quechua language: ‘Ackon Cahuak’, meaning ‘Stone Sentinel’ or ‘Anco Cahuac’, meaning ‘White Sentinel’.
Routes – Hiking Aconcagua
To reach the Summit, you can choose from the following routes:
1. Normal route on hiking Aconcagua. This is the most popular option, and the route spans 18 days, with an extended 20-day version available for those who need extra acclimatization. However, for the experienced and well-acclimatized, there are shorter programs of 12-13 days.
The normal route on hiking Aconcagua consists of climbing through the northeast side, through the Horcones valley. It is a non-technical ascent that can be accomplished without using special equipment.
Most expeditions start in Mendoza and continue to Penitentes or Puente del Inca. The usual progression of the itinerary, including acclimatization and rest days, is as follows: Confluencia Camp (3390m)—Plaza de Mulas (Aconcagua Base Camp, 4300m)—Plaza Canada (High Camp 1, 5050m)—Nido de Cóndores (High Camp 2, 5550m)—Plaza Colera (High Camp 3, 5970m)—Aconcagua summit (6961m).
2. Polish route on hiking Aconcagua. The route is so called because the eastern slope of Aconcagua was first climbed by a Polish expedition: Konstanty Narkiewicz-Jodko, Stefan Daszyński, Wiktor Ostrowski, and Stefan Osiecki, who reached the Summit on March 8th, 1934.
The Polish route can take about 17 days, and experience of glacier crossings is required at the end.
3. 360° route on hiking Aconcagua, which combines the normal and Polish routes. It starts from the Vacas Valley and has its base camp at Plaza Argentina. Thereafter, the descent is the same as the Normal route.
Weather – Hiking Aconcagua
The Aconcagua climbing season lasts from November through March, and the last day to enter Aconcagua Provincial Park is the last day of February.
During the season, temperatures vary considerably and change throughout the day and night. In Plaza de Mulas, 4300m (the base camp for the regular route), temperatures can reach as low as -18°C in bad weather conditions. In high camps, temperatures are generally around -15°C. Above 5000m, temperatures below -20°C are typical. On the Summit, temperatures can easily reach -25 °C.
As a reference, temperatures fall between 0.5 and 1 °C per 100 m. So, a temperature of -5 °C at Plaza de Mulas (4300 m) can mean a temperature of -25 °C at the Summit.
The exact duration of the seasons is as follows:
Low season: November 15th – November 13th; and February 21st – March 15th
Middle season: December 1st – December 14th; February 1st – February 20th
High season: December 15th – January 31st
Preparation – Hiking Aconcagua
Mount Aconcagua receives many climbers yearly, but only 30-35% succeed. The others must give up mainly due to bad weather, lack of proper acclimatization, or insufficient physical preparation.
Each of these reasons can be countered with the right strategy.
Bad weather can be overcome by using good equipment and planning enough days. Combined with the thin air, the ambient temperature will be much lower, making the pace slower than usual. Your feet will likely feel the cold more than they would otherwise. Hence, the proper footwear(double or triple boots) ensures you won’t struggle to warm your feet throughout the expedition. Because there is almost always a strong wind, it is necessary to use a layered protection system.
Proper acclimatization: around 18-20 days are needed for acclimatization. Food and hydration should be appropriate for the altitude. As a rule, you should drink before you feel thirsty and keep hydrating throughout the day because eating helps the body convert energy into heat. As a sign of good acclimatization, urine should be sufficient and transparent. If there is not enough urine, then it is a sign of poor acclimatization. Drinking around 5 liters of fluids a day is typical at these altitudes.
Physical training: physical training increases your chances of reaching the Summit and minimizes the risks of pulmonary, peripheral, and cerebral edema. For this reason, training should be started at least 3-6 months in advance.
February 2024.
The search for hiking Aconcagua begins. In 2021, after climbing Mont Blanc, I decided to do the Seven Summits, one Summit each year. If in 2022 I was on Kilimanjaro and in 2023 on Elbrus, the options for 2024 are South America or Oceania / Australia.
Because I am not sure if an expedition can be realized in Oceania, I decided to go to South America this year and try to climb Aconcagua in December.
I’ve read considerably about hiking Aconcagua, set the period, and bought the travel tickets. I’ll fly with only one stop, from Munich to São Paulo, and from there, to Mendoza. Because I’ll be flying during the winter holidays, I decided that two or more stops would be too dangerous because of the risk of lost or delayed luggage. There is a risk, and I do my best to minimize it.
Although I can travel with a group, I choose to do the expedition privately, with a guide only, because in a group, you cannot be sure of the others’ physical condition. It would be too risky to fly from Munich, prepare for almost a year, and not be able to reach the Summit because of other people.
I chose Acomara, a company that sells very well and pray they are equally professional on the mountain. The company has over 20 years of experience, and I think they have qualified people in all departments, not just marketing and sales. In the end, this choice is confirmed because the guide with whom I went, Marcos, and the one who took care of my reception in Argentina, Vivian, have 5 stars out of 5.
October 2024.
The cardio training begins. After a summer in the mountains and a week in Switzerland at 3000-3500 meters, the real preparation begins. I set myself a goal to run 10 kilometers under an hour by December. I am not a great runner, so all I do is be realistic and accept my daily progress.
At first, it was pretty hard, and my first lap was 3 km. I don’t push it because I can’t afford any injuries from now on. I’m really stumbling, but after my body gets used to it, I notice that it feels ok, and I could run a bit more. I leave it like this and tell myself I’ll run more next time. I aim to run 2-3 times a week, so I’ll have enough time until December to increase the level.
In the first week, I managed to run once, twice in the second week, and three times in the third week. Between runs, I started training on Freeletics with general exercises to improve my fitness. I also said I’d hike on the weekend but had no energy left. I hope it will be enough with what I do.
I started with 3 km. In the second week, I raised it to 5, and by the third week, I’d already reached 6-7 km. It was November, and I was satisfied with the progress.
After a few times, I noticed the route was too short and decided to try a new one. Unfortunately, I got lost, and in the end, I realized that I had run 14 km. I could feel my legs the next day, and I told myself I wouldn’t push in the future, remaining at 10 km.
Clothes and gear—do I have it all? I reviewed the gear needed for hiking Aconcagua list several times and bought everything. Luckily, I already had 99%: double boots from Scarpa, all sorts of jackets, merino wool T-shirts, a face mask, long socks, a 20000 mA battery, and so on. What else I needed was a proper down jacket.
A week in advance, I did my inventory, laid everything on the floor, and weighed everything. I reviewed the list again and relaxed: the bag had 19.8 kg. I still had room for food, so I added it up to 22.5 kg. The limit was 23, so it was ok.
December 20th. Munich – São Paulo.
All the preparation is over – now it begins. Or better said, it continues because the start of hiking Aconcagua was in February. Today is still the first day of the trip, and after a night in which I woke up about 4 times, I decided that at 6:30 a.m., I would get out of bed. I arrived at the Airport at 08:15 for a flight scheduled at 11:25. Being the holiday season, I didn’t want to risk entering a crowded Airport. My worries were quickly dispelled as I handed over my luggage and went through the security check-in record time: 15 minutes.
Almost everyone knows what it’s like on a long flight. You sit in your seat and… sit a bit more. I took this opportunity to rest as much as possible because I know some days will come when I’ll need all the energy I can get. I’ve already left Munich with pretty empty batteries, so I took every moment to recharge them.
December 21st. São Paulo – Mendoza
After a more than 12-hour flight, we landed at 12 a.m. in São Paulo. The flight was enjoyable, and I read a Steve Jobs book, saw two or three movies, and slept a couple more times. In the end, I told myself I could fly for a few more days.
I had heard that many overseas flights get delayed, so I opted for a 10-hour stop in São Paulo. What can you do in an airport at night for 10 hours? You can sleep, or you can walk around. I did both—many times.
We left São Paulo in the morning and arrived in Mendoza at noon.
A round. One more. And another one. It goes on and on…
I still don’t see it.
It hasn’t come. It’s not here. The breath goes faster, and the monotonous rumble of the black rubber belt predicts something bad.
Not yet.
I look to my left and right, and on the faces of the people around me, I see only smiles, silence, and joy. Everything is as it should be for them: everyone takes their long-awaited luggage and leaves.
Not yet. Or not yet for me.
I sit upright, tense as in a contest, waiting to hear the starting bell. Ten minutes have passed, and not a single movement. After looking at each suitcase, bag, or backpack, the luggage carousel empties. There’s nothing left on it. There’s nobody left here. Everyone’s gone.
What’s happening? Is it real?
The rubber band moves for another minute, and the silence falls over the whole hall, the whole Airport. In a room that a few minutes ago was full of people, now it’s just me. Me with no bag.
Something I feared has come true. What will it be like now? I have a few extra days prepared for such things, but deep down, I did not want to use them for such an event. A visit to Mendoza or the famous wine cellars would have been more appropriate. Still, it’s good to have a few days available.
I reported to the flight company, and the answer I got was that I would be called. When, How, and by whom? Nobody told me. The main plan was to go directly to Penitentes in the mountains, but now, I had to find a hotel. Finally, I provided some info and set off for the city.
If it were 5 degrees when I left Munich, it’s over 35 degrees here. On the one hand, this is good because I didn’t see the sun for a long time; on the other hand, it’s bad because any rapid temperature change can affect me.
I met with Vivian and the guys from the rental shop and checked my equipment. Everything was ok, and later, after testing some traditional food(a pizza), I went to the hotel. My God. How hot it can be.
December 22nd. Mendoza
Very few people understand and appreciate the internet and smartphones at their true value. In a foreign country without internet, the phone, with all its technology, is just a pocket camera.
Around 10, I checked out of my hotel and started to look for a SIM card. I arrived at a big shopping center, and using my hands, after about three attempts at various stores, I managed to get a SIM with an Argentinian number. I was surprised to see how many people don’t speak English. Only in Russia did I feel so helpless.
Again, after evaluating all the restaurants in the shopping center, I chose one more time to eat something traditional. Pizza was again the first and only choice. I had heard that they eat a lot of meat in Argentina, but I didn’t think you could order meat with meat. Burgers with 3,4 patties, ribs, steaks, and all kinds of sausages. For me, as a vegan/vegetarian, just pizza Margherita.
I went to the Airport again, and deja vu: everywhere, I saw happy people waiting for each other. A few hours of maximum tension, and it hits me right in the face, like a freshly cut log: it didn’t arrive. After a 2:30 to 8:30 wait, I feel miserable, helpless. Luckily, the emotional intelligence knowledge rescued me, and I remembered that any emotion, no matter how bad, lasts 15 minutes. I just have to face these 15 minutes of suffering. As an NLP Trainer, I got the best chance to live what I teach others in the NLP personal development trainings.
Later, I realized that this “bad” situation would be a huge “luck.” But you’ll find out more about this later…
December 23. Mendoza – Penitentes(2750 m)
I open my eyes and look at the white ceiling: I’ve seen this before. The hotel room is the same. The sun is still there. My chest moves slowly. The heat is everywhere. I talked to the flight customer support, who confirmed that my baggage would arrive today at 18:40. Would it really come? If not, I would have to think of another approach because I don’t have any extra days left.
Should I rent, wait, or try to do a fast accent? I consider each option, write them on paper, and wait. Tonight, I have to decide.
In Mendoza, there are happy people everywhere. The shops are full, and at over 37 degrees, I see a beautiful Christmas tree in the middle of town. I eat pizza again because I don’t want to risk stomach problems just before the expedition. When I finally arrived at the hotel, people were carrying presents and smiling around me, but I didn’t seem to be thinking about Christmas. Still, I hope Santa will bring my luggage tonight.
Uber is also in Argentina, so I ordered a car and left for the Airport at 6. I made my rounds at the ticket counters, and after talking to the airport staff, they confirmed that it was documented in the system that the luggage was on its way and would arrive tonight. I don’t know what to think, but there’s hope. Let’s see.
I position myself in front of the exit and, like a sniper, scan every door opening. The mountaineering life gives you something very valuable: patience. I have come to have plenty of this, and after waiting for 20 minutes, I see my gray bag has arrived. Now, the hiking Aconcagua expedition can begin.
It feels so good. Christmas arrived much earlier. An Uber shows up, and I go to meet my guide. I see that he is ready. A black Mercedes Vito appears, and after loading our backpacks, we set off towards Penitentes.
The road is heavily traveled by trucks, and after a 3-hour curving through the mountains, we arrive at the starting hut at 2750m.
Dinner was waiting for us, and we got to know each other. I also met Diego, who introduced us to the equipment on the video conference a few months before, and I was happy to see somebody familiar.
I look in the hut and see many flags, pictures of the Summit, and many happy faces. I hope to earn a place on this wall in two weeks.
December 24th. Penitentes – Confluencia 3400m
A ray of light enters the room. My senses wake up one by one, and I see I am in a new place, on a new bed. Fresh air enters my chest, and I get up from the old bed to remove the dusty curtain.
A great joy floods my body, and it strikes me: I know why I do what I do. Behind the hut, a sun-drenched mountain arises. It’s stunning. I’m also surprised how much a simple image can relax and thrill me at the same time.
If yesterday I wondered why I do what I do and didn’t feel that why, today I know. I retrieved it, not just for this mountain but for everything I do.
I come from a place where I wanted, and back then, it was not possible. Now, when I finally get the chance, I give my all. It feels good, and a wave of gratitude runs through my body. Thank you. Big thank you. I’ve revealed my why once again! I notice that the cheeks move by themselves, and a smile lands on my face. It feels so good.
In front of a lodge, on one sunny morning, we load everything into a Jeep and set off toward the park entrance. At the foot of Aconcagua, I take another step in this adventure. Marcos calls me to the park entrance, and I sign the entry permit in the presence of a ranger. She wishes us good luck, and we start.
The path is beautiful and very different from what I’ve seen in the Alps. Lots of gravel, rocks, desert, and many dry plants. We walk by the Orcones River, and Marcos explains that the water comes from melting glaciers. I look around, I look in the distance, and I don’t see any glaciers. I think of Zugspitze, of Partnachklamm, of the dozens of tourists guided in those places, and a shiver of enthusiasm runs through me. And notice that the spirit of the Alps is with me here, thousands of kilometers away.
Speaking of which, if you want to take a guided tour with me in the Bavarian Alps, look here, because I offer many attractive tours in the area.
On this path up, there are other hikers, and I met Pablo, another guide. He is with a small group I saw in the morning in the Penitentes hut: Gulerme from France, Albert from Spain, Jay and his son from the USA. They are all humming and enjoying the adventure of hiking Aconcagua.
From the very first hours on the mountain, I noticed something interesting. Everything here moves with rhythm and music. Marco, Pablo, the other guide, and even those with the donkeys listened to music as they stepped. With a little Bluetooth speaker, the rhythm was everywhere.
Marcus tells me all sorts of details and even shows me where scenes from Brad Pitt’s movie 7 Years in Tibet were filmed. After about 4-5 hours of trekking, we reach the Confluencia camp at 3390 meters.
With the sun on my side, spending Christmas Eve like this is exciting. I’ve spent New Year’s Eve in the mountains a few times, but never Christmas. The camp personnel know their job very well, and at 4 o’clock, they expect us with a delicious meal. However, it’s not the food that surprises me, but the fact that I’m offered watermelon—perfect fruit for this trip so far.
Being on vacation, I allowed myself to relax. I put everything behind me and forgot how I was working in Munich a few days ago.
Stillness is everywhere, and the landscape differs a lot from what I have seen before. We took a short hike into the nearby hills, then up to 3500. I took pictures everywhere, knowing how much joy I would have when I would see them in the future: cliffs where condors nest, dwarf bushes, and layers of stone where millions of years of history are recorded.
In the evening, the camp personnel treated us to a festive Christmas feast with appetizers, a main course, and dessert. I’m overjoyed, and I notice that the atmosphere has relaxed. Everyone is laughing and talking about their latest mountain tours. I discovered that Gulierme has recently been to Mont Blanc and that Alberto is a trail runner who frequently does triathlons. It’s delightful to be around such passionate people.
We talk, laugh, plan, and finally go to sleep. I get into my Deuter sleeping bag and am glad I made this choice. It’s the longest and warmest from this company and seems perfect for this adventure. Still, I’m looking forward to the next few days, when the night temperatures will be in the -20s.
December 25th. Confluencia 3400 – Plaza Francis (4000 m)
How do you know you slept well? Well, you remember your dreams and feel very rested. The sleeping bag was fine, but I didn’t sweat from the heat. Maybe I’ll stop sleeping in my underwear tonight and wear thin stockings.
Today, we set off on an acclimatization tour to 4000 m in Plaza de Flores. To avoid unpleasant effects, hiking high and sleeping low is recommended. In addition, on this acclimatization tour, I will have the opportunity to see the glaciers, the origin of the Orcones River, and the mountain’s south side. I’ve already seen many pictures, and I’m very curious to see the mountain in person.
On the way up, Marcos tells me more about the national park and the guides here. In good seasons, up to 7,000 tourists can come to the mountain. They are led or guided by the 200 active guides. For those with more experience, having a guide on the expedition is not mandatory. After paying the entrance fee, everyone can climb the mountain independently.
The route is not technical, but acclimatization can make a difference. Also, the rule is to drink a liter every thousand meters to acclimate better. To ensure a smooth expedition and no surprises, two medical checks have been installed: one is at Camp Confluencia, and the other is at Camp Plaza de Mulas. I haven’t had my medical yet, and I’m looking forward to it. I still don’t know the oxygen level in my blood or what else will be checked. I feel fine, but I don’t have anything official yet.
I make another short tour, and on the way back, Marcos says we can go for the medical checkup. At first, I thought it was just something formal, but the whole checkup lasted about 10 minutes. A doctor checked my breathing and listened to my lungs with a stethoscope. The results were good, with an 85% oxygen level and blood pressure maybe 130, with 90. I am informed that I am doing very well, and the data is recorded in my climbing permit.
What surprised me on this mountain was how quickly the temperature dropped after the sun entered the clouds. After a 15-degree temperature drop in 5 minutes, my body went into alert mode, and I started shivering uncontrollably. I started to wonder: If it’s like this up here, what’s it like up there? In what did I get myself into? Will I be strong enough? Will I make it?
December 26th. Confluencia – Plaza de Mulas (4300 m)
Even though it’s about a 5-hour time zone difference from Munich, I am back to normal. The morning call was at 6:10, 10 minutes later than I usually wake up. Given the conditions, I slept very well. It’s strange sleeping in a sleeping bag without moving around too much, but I expected worse. As for the temperature, it was acceptable with the proper underclothes.
On our way up, we had to give away our duffel bags to be transported with donkeys or mules. Each mule will carry 2 or 3 bags, as the animal load cannot exceed 60 kg. Mine was about 19-20 kg, and it was fine. The backpack I had after that was around 7-8, and I had to carry it alone. If I had to compare it with a 25 kg backpack, the backpack I remained with was highly comfortable.
On the way to hiking Aconcagua, man can find various things. One of them is horseshoes. Finding a horseshoe is a sign of good luck, and if you decide to take it with you, you have to be careful how you hang it. If you hang it in a U-shape, it’s good luck. If you hang it in an A-shape, it’s bad luck.
Around 2 o’clock, we reached 4000 m altitude and passed by the “Columbia military shelter.” It was built 40 years ago, but unfortunately, an avalanche destroyed it. It was very strange for me to imagine avalanches in a place where everywhere I looked was desert. But of course, now was sommer time. Who knows how the winters are out here?
I didn’t have time to finish my thoughts when dark clouds appeared in the sky. We moved on, the wind strengthened, and in less than an hour, the desert had been replaced by a completely white blanket. After another hour of walking, we arrived in a full snowstorm at Basecamp “Plaza de Mulas“, at 4300 meters. We left at around 15 degrees in the sun and arrived in the snow at around -15.
We managed to warm up in a tent, drank tea, ate some soup, and eventually recovered. The weather improved, too, and we could go outside again. If only a day ago, everywhere you looked, you saw only rocks, now at Plaza de Mulas, after the snowstorm, we saw only white. At that altitude, what was most impressive were the Penitentes. Those snow formations are tall, thin blades of hardened snow or ice that form at high altitudes in the Andes Mountains or in dry regions like the Atacama Desert. I’d never seen them before.
The camp Plaza de Mulas is very large, with dozens of tents, and is run by several local companies. As an interesting fact, the camp has the highest tent gallery of contemporary art, “Nautilus,” by Argentinian painter Miguel Doura. The artist named the gallery Nautilus due to its submarine-like shape, which is reminiscent of Captain Nemo’s vessel in Jules Verne’s “20,000 Leagues Under the Sea.”
The temperature dropped, and I noticed a big difference between the Confluencia Camp at 3300 and the Plaza de Mulas Camp at 4300. In addition, with snow everywhere, the cold was felt even more intensely. I wonder what it will be like tomorrow. But most importantly, what will it be like above?
However, now I can declare why the first three agonizing days in Mendoza were actually a gift. If the luggage had arrived on time, and we had been leaving for the mountains immediately, the snowstorm would have caught me at 5500 – 6000 meters. What would it have been like there? Hmmm…I don’t even want to think about it.
December 27. Plaza de Mulas. Rest Day
The altitude also affected my sleep. I went to bed at 9:45, but a few hours later, I woke up: it was 12:30. I started tossing and turning, and finally, around 3 o’clock, I managed to fall asleep again. I knew it was normal at higher altitudes to fall asleep slowly, and I hoped to get used to it as soon as possible.
It being a day of rest, we began to meet new people. That’s how I met Hose Maria. He’s 58 years old, and this is his third time on Aconcagua. He’s alone and very well-equipped. I like how he prepared for hiking Aconcagua, and I wish him lots of success. Maybe we will summit the same day!
How can you best rest when you’re on the mountain? Well, of course, you go for a hike. I saw some beautiful rocks nearby, so I went up there myself. They’re called the Conway Rocks, and they’re at 4750 meters. Their name comes from Sir William Martin Conway, a British explorer, art teacher, and mountaineer. Although he never reached the main Summit, his contributions to the region’s exploration were significant, and these rock formations bear his name in recognition.
Because the Bavarian Alps are not so high, you can’t know in advance how your body will react. I noticed that if I went faster, I started to get tired. But if I went slow, everything was fine.
At 5:30, I went for my second medical checkup, as I had a doctor’s appointment. As in the Confluencia camp, two doctors checked me and listened to my lungs and breathing. I had 83 oxygen in my blood and a blood pressure of 130/90. After 15 minutes, I got the verdict: everything was ok, and I could continue the ascent.
Next to the camp is a hotel that, sadly for me, was dismantled some years ago and is now known as “Refugio Plaza de Mulas.” Although initially intended to provide accommodation for climbers and tourists hiking Aconcagua, the hotel was abandoned and is no longer used. Today, the former hotel building is a landmark and is sometimes used for emergencies.
December 28th. Plaza de Mules – Camp 1 Canada (5050 m) and return
On this expedition, I slept more than usual. However, sleeping was a bit unrealistic because I mainly lay down and rested. If I felt sore and tired from the heat when I landed in Mendoza, I feel better now. The cold is helping, as I have been training only in the cold for the last 3 months.
After a substantial breakfast, we carried the food to Camp Canada. I chose to do the expedition without the help of porters in the upper camps, so I had to carry my own food and equipment. I was surprised to see a 65-liter backpack completely full, with no place for anything else. It must have weighed more than 25 kg, and it was the heaviest backpack I’ve ever carried. I looked at Marcos, and he had a similar one. How much will we eat up there?
We set off at 10:30 and arrived at Camp Canada at 2 o’clock. After 3 and a half hours, we unloaded the food and ate the provided package: an omelette with potatoes and an orange. At 5000 meters, a slight headache appeared, primarily due to fatigue, I guess, but it diminished after I emptied the backpack.
On the way down, Marcos chose a more special path: the road used by the porters. It’s very steep and full of rocks and gravel, but we managed to descend the 700 altitude meters in 45 minutes. It was a very beneficial contrast because we went with 200 on the way up.
December 29th. Plaza de Mules – Camp 1 Canada (5050 m)
Because the camp is in a valley, there is shade everywhere until 9 o’clock. What does that mean? It’s cold, cold, cold. Everything changes after the sun comes out, and it’s much nicer to be outside.
I’ve decided what equipment to leave in the Plaza de Mulas and what I will take in the higher camps. The backpack is full again, and I was surprised by how heavy it can be. It weighs between 20 and 25 kg, and when I think back, I appreciate the test tour from September in the Swiss Alps.
December 30. Plaza de Mulas – Camp 2 Nido de Condores (5550 m)
I woke up at about 8 and, of course, went to the toilet. The fun part is that there are no toilets at this altitude, and you must use plastic bags. The porters collect these “packages” and take them to the base camp. From here, the bags are put in iron barrels and carried down the mountain to keep the mountain clean.
It was rough at night because I didn’t fall asleep until about 1 a.m. Around 12:30, my head started hurting, 3 out of 10. I took an Ibuprofen 400, and after half an hour, it went away.
As signs of inadequate acclimatization, there are the following indicators: in the first phase, headache, insomnia, hunger or lack of appetite, dizziness, and in the second phase, headache that persists even if you take painkillers, vomiting, breathing problems, fatigue, and little urination. There is a list with all these indicators, each with a value, and you can add them up to see the results. So far, it’s been good for me, and I hope it stays that way.
I don’t know if it’s the cold, the tiredness, or the altitude, but I started having bizarre dreams. I dreamt that a policewoman or park security guard came and argued with me about why I left my feet in the cold. I woke up suddenly, and to keep my feet from getting cold, I put on my mittens – the big arctic gloves – on my feet. They looked strange, but they worked perfectly.
In the morning, I took a picture of myself and freaked out at how tired and sloppy I looked. Hehe. At least I’m fine on the inside.
After breakfast, we set off for camp 2, Nido de Condores, at 5550. In pleasant sunshine, we walked the 1.8 km in 2 1/2 hours. The elevation difference was 520 meters, and we walked slowly, about 200 meters per hour.
December 31st. Camp 2 Nido de Condores – Rest Day
At this altitude, the wind is different. It’s like a dragon that has forgotten the taste of food, touching our tents at 65 km an hour. I know it could be much worse, but I hope it remains like that.
After a day of acclimatization, I tried to sleep again in the evening. After the strange dreams from the past few days, I decided to put on more clothes. If I get sick and don’t make the Summit, I won’t continue with 7 summits. Such an expedition involves many resources, and everything has to work: planning, transport, logistics, guidance, weather, preparation, food, and health. I’ve made up my mind and am at peace with that. I know I’ve done all that can be done. We shall see. Still, I’m going all out to make the Summit. It’s so close.
It’s been a long night, and in the morning, after the sun comes out, it looks a little more accessible. When I’m tired, I notice many dark thoughts come up. At least I know that such thoughts will come, and it doesn’t scare me anymore. I think of how much I’ve done, only to see the peak before my eyes.
I’ve started to wear all my clothes except my hard shell. It’s cold, but it works. It’s bearable. At 2 o’clock, Diego and Marcos, but mostly Diego, made us pizza. What I thought impossible was realized: pizza prepared in the frying pan.
I look back, and I’ve been gone for 12 days. Pfff. That’s a long time spent hiking Aconcagua. I’m still thinking of other expeditions, including Everest. What’s it like to be 60 days away?
January 1st. Camp 2 to Camp 3 Colera (6000 m)
Happy New Year. I’ve spent the New Year on the mountain before, but never this high. It’s a joy to be here, and it almost makes me forget the cold and wind. I got a cough in my chest, but a mild one—about 3 out of 10. I’m taking some medicine, and I hope it’s nothing serious. I don’t know if it’s my lungs, acclimatization, the cold, or the cold air.
If I were really sick, returning to base would be highly complicated. First, I would have to take a helicopter and then wait for baggage. Phew. I hope everything will be ok.
Around 12, Marcos and I leave for the last camp, Colera. We hike for about 3-4 hours, and by 4, we get there. In the meantime, I enjoy the mountains and the views and see what Berlin Camp is like. Although I usually take many pictures, I only took a maximum of 5 because of tiredness and cold.
On the way, we met a guide and two clients from the opposite direction. Surprisingly, one of them was wearing a mask and an oxygen tube. Marcos asked the guide how it was. The other guide said that they didn’t reach the Summit, even with the oxygen tube. Marcos told me how sad it must feel.
With thoughts like you have to deal with. Would I be good enough? Would I need oxygen, too? I saw many similar examples in Plaza de Mulas, with hikers who didn’t reach the Summit. Some because of the weather, some because of their diet, and some were just coming back very sick. I looked at them all and told myself to have faith in myself and all the preparation I had done. I hope it will be ok.
January 2nd. Summit day
On such expeditions, you meet all sorts of people. One was a Canadian named Marc, who worked as a porter. He told us that at 6000, you don’t sleep so easily, and that’s exactly how it was. I went to bed at 9 and listened to music. I had a hard time falling asleep, but I finally managed to sleep for an hour or two—enough for a reset.
The official wake-up was at 03:45, and because it was so cold, it took 30 minutes to get fully equipped. I was moving in slow motion, and my whole body hurt. When I went outside after getting dressed, it seemed even colder. Still, I was glad it was not snowing because I didn’t have to carry the snow axe with me. On the other hand, I relied on all the possible luck because I also took the horseshoe I found on the road.
I hope I arranged it in the correct position in my rucksack.
It’s summit day. Now, I have to give my all. I think only of the Summit now because going down will be much faster—it always is.
In the middle of the night, in a frozen tent, we ate some tortillas Diego had prepared for us all. We had some tea, got the hot water bottles, and were ready.
5 a.m. Marcos started, and I followed him. We started slowly and could see lights ahead of us. I’m so familiar with this view. On the Matterhorn, Mont Blanc, or Aconcagua, the light chain is identical everywhere. It’s part of the high mountains.
It’s cold, and we’re going slow—very, very slow. As Josef, my guide from Kilimanjaro would say: “pole, pole”. My body adapts well, and I feel I can do it. I just have to stick to the plan, with a break every hour.
We arrived at Independencia and saw a stunning sunrise. Whatever mountain you’re on, the sun is always a good sign.
It was time to equip, so we put on the crampons and helmets. We set off on the traverse, and although it was full of well-packed snow, it was easy to walk on and not excessively steep. It was a long, long way down, but I didn’t see any danger.
At high altitudes, oxygen levels drop in proportion to atmospheric pressure. If the pressure at sea level is 760 mm Hg and the oxygen level is 100%, on the Summit of Aconcagua, the pressure is approximately 290 mm Hg, and the oxygen drops to 37%. What does that mean? Low pressure at high altitudes causes difficulty breathing and poor muscle or muscular system performance. To compensate, the most handy method used is hyperventilation with rapid, deep breaths.
Using this method, I started to breathe faster and noticed that I already had a sore throat. That’s it. Let’s reach the Summit, and I’ll take care of my neck tomorrow.
We did it step by step, and after some time, we reached the Summit. The clear skies at 12 were darkened by 2 p.m. when we arrived. The view an hour ago had turned into a fog, and we couldn’t see much. We looked around for a while, but nothing could be seen. Still, we congratulated eachother and took our summit picture.
Felicitaciones.
We stayed 5 more minutes and started the descent. On the way back, we saw Hose-Maria. I congratulated him and told him he was close, only a few meters to the Summit. A smile rose on a tortured face, and it was enough. In the following days, I would discover his story of hiking Aconcagua, in which, on his third attempt, he managed to reach the famous Summit. Felicitaciones Hose-Maria.
We took a different road and after some time we reached a familiar little shelter: Plaza Independencia. I was so tired. I sat down, put my backpack under my head, and closed my eyes. I don’t know how long I slept, but it was extremely pleasant. The sun came out and seemed to want to congratulate us on hiking Aconcagua. We smiled at each other, and we went down.
January 3rd. Camp 3 – Plaza de Mulas
In the morning, the tent was covered in ice outside and inside. I left a blouse to dry, but it was so cold that it froze. Looking around, I saw ice crystals everywhere. Man, it can be so cold here. I have a slight headache and am glad it’s almost over. There’s coughing in practically every tent in the camp. I wanted to write something, but my hands hurt from the cold. Eventually, I move a finger or two, and slowly, I can stretch out.
We left Colera at 11:30 and arrived at Base Camp at 14:00.
Felicitationes! Felicitationes for hiking Aconcagua! That’s what we heard from all the people in Plaza de Mulas. I’m so glad I made the Summit! It was such a release. We got to speak a bit with other hikers, and we celebrated with a delicious burger. When I think about it, it was one of the best burgers I’ve eaten.
How do you reward yourself on the mountain for such an accomplishment? It’s not every day you get to celebrate hiking Aconcagua. For me, it was simple: I took a hot shower. After six days of sweating or cold, it was a dream—the most satisfying prize.
January 4th. Plaza de Mulas to Penitentes
The mountain and the camp look different. In fact, I think they all look the same; it is only with me that something has changed.
We packed, had something to eat, and set off for Penitentes. The trail is 25 kilometers long and descends from 4200 to 2750. I would have liked to have left the cough behind, but it will be a few more days before I will heal.
Felicitationes! Felicitationes for hiking Aconcagua! That’s what they all said. I felt a great sense of joy and pride for this accomplishment. I looked at the people just coming up and saw fear and worry on their faces. Of course, I also felt it a few days before.
We arrived at Confluencia at 2:45. Everyone congratulated us, and we ate fruit compote and drank juice. We rejuvenated, and under a burning sun, we left again. At the Brad Pitt Bridge, we picked up a rock. We left it in the mound of stones, thanking the mountain for allowing us to get to the top and return safely after hiking Aconcagua.
We took another look back, and I know it will take me some time to integrate all this experience.
A quiet stillness settled in my chest, and I was overcome by pure fulfillment.
Felicitaciones.
Hiking ACONCAGUA – The tour
Day 1 – 20.12.2024 Munich – Mendoza
Day 2 – 21.12.2024 Mendoza – EXTRA DAY
Day 3 – 22.12.2024 Mendoza – EXTRA DAY
Day 4 – 23.12.2024 Mendoza – Penitentes – 2750m
Day 5 – 24.12.2024 Penitentes / Confluencia 3300m
Day 6 – 25.12. 2024 Confluencia / Plaza Francia 4000m / Confluencia
Day 7 – 26.12.2024 Confluencia / Plaza de Mulas 4250m
Day 8 – 27.12.2024 Plaza de Mulas 4250m – Rest Day
Day 9 – 28.12.2024 Plaza de Mulas / Camp 1 Canada 5000m / Plaza de Mulas
Day 10 – 29. 12.12.2024 Plaza de Mulas / Camp 1 Canada 5000m
Day 11 – 30.12.2024 Camp 1 Canada / Camp 2 Nido de Cóndores 5500m
Day 12 – 31.12.2024 Camp 2 Nido de Cóndores 5500m – Rest Day
Day 13 – 01.01.2025 Camp 2 / Camp 3 6000m
Day 14 – 02.01. 2025 Camp 3 / SUMMIT 6962m / Camp 3
Day 15 – 03.01.2025 Camp 3 / Plaza de Mulas
Day 16 – 04.01.2025 Plaza de Mulas / Penitentes
Day 17 – 05.01.2025 Penitentes / Mendoza
Day 18 – 06.01.2025 Mendoza Airport
Day 19 – 07.01.2025 Munich